Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
